My JVC Headphones Broke - What Happened To That Company?

For those who have lived at least 20-years or more, should know the JVC company. Back in the 70's, 80's, and 90's, they were known as a premier Japanese electronics company. Their name was on everything, stereo's, receivers, amplifiers, speakers, headphones, cd players, tape recorders, TV's, you name it! So you can imagine owning a huge set of over the ear can's back in the 70's, you knew you had quality on your head. And because of this quality, people had trust in the JVC company.

But something went wrong with JVC in the 2000's, they sold their souls to China, like so many other's had. JVC products are now made in China, and as such, their quality has severely gone down hill. Just before JVC discontinued the SZ series line of headphones, they were marketed primarily in Japan, and as such, other countries such as America, had to import them if people wanted them. Do you remember when the term imported meant high quality?

I remember people talking about their imported Italian or swiss leather furniture, and it was like a ooooo ahhhhh thing, imported = quality, and lots of money. But now days imported don't mean c*** unless the quality is there to back it up. This is a picture of my JVC SZ 1000-E headphones, and where the arrow is pointing, is where my swivel hinged snapped. There is no way to easily repair this and maintain swivel functionality. And unless it swivels, the cups won't conform to your head properly and make a seal around the ear cup. The only way to fix this, is to print a new part from a 3D printer, if you own one of those.

Additionally, when the cups don't form to your head, it will be uncomfortable, and even if you have high quality pads with memory foam, they won't be able to do much to help you, if the headphone is pulling against your ear lobes lol. So it was time to buy a new pair of headphones, and preferably, not pay an arm and a leg for them. So that means Bose headphones were out, no way am I going to dump 300 dollars or more into a headphone. In my research, I discovered that V-moda makes quality headphones that are nearly all metal construction, and have earned a military grade certification.

For those that don't know, I'm a basshead, which means I like to hear the bass get down low, all the way into the sub bass range, and I like to feel the beats in my head with music. And when playing games or watching movies, I like to feel the sound in my head, not just hear it. But I'm a respectful person, I'm not the one with the sub woofer in the trunk of the car shaking your windows. I'm the one who loves it on their head, so you never have to get angry at me lol.

So enough talk, here are a few pictures of my new V-Moda Crossfade LP2's!

Seems you are happy with the new Phones. At least there is a perk.
I have some very old KOSS headphones here. They have not broken and I will never allow them to be.

Quality build, quality materials are a strong facet of something else that I do with my time. I keep these separate, as I strongly prefer to not mix crowds.
However, being a mechanic, having Quality Tools is crucial.

And a "lifetime Guarantee" on a tool that breaks and is cheaply made is functionally useless.
If I apply the torque load necessary to free a rusted bolt and the cheap "free-replacement" socket shatters, then that free replacement means nothing when I keep replacing it and the bolt remains put!
I only use High Quality titanium-alloy US Steel tools.
For ME, imported has always meant Inferior quality But this applies to the Tools- Honda is a rock solid car for anyone.
Today, many toolmakers based in the USA now bear the disclaimer: "Made in the USA from Global Materials."
Translation: Made in China.
A lot of people mistake what it is that bothers us Wrenchers about "made in China." Is it racism? Patriotism? Neither. It is simply that in China, metal processing is unable to remove many impurities, like Sulphur which makes the metal brittle. The Quality Assurance is Low. They are made very cheaply, bought somewhat cheaply and break easily.
And sadly, it is mostly all you can get, these days. Well, for most. I knows a secret...

I am enjoying my headphones, but I am waiting on a set of XL replacement pads. The stock pads on these can's let my ear lobs rest on the driver and its uncomfortable. But the XL pads are larger, thicker, and should get my ears off the driver. Larger pads will no doubt open up the sound stage, and allow the beats to hit harder with greater accuracy. I'm powering my V-Moda's using a Fiio A5 amp, which is delivering all the power that my can's need through a high quality Ivanky brand cable that has 24K gold plated connectors. I've heard that Koss is a quality brand, but I am not sure if they are still around?

Yes, the planned obsolescence drives me up the wall. Speaking of which, look at your wall, it might be made in China too lol. There is so much that is not made in the USA, most manufacturing happens in China, its disgusting. Its a struggle for sure trying to find a good product for a respectable price. Everybody knows Beats headphones by Dr. Drey, but their known to be absolute c***. They cost 300 dollars, and are not even as good as my V-Moda can's for 150 dollars. Even a Bose 300 dollar pair beats the Beats lol.

As far as tools, I hear ya man. When you operate an automotive shop, you need high quality Snap-On tools and Fluke meters. They will cost you an arm in a leg for sure, but as long as you have a constant supply of vehicles to repair, you will be able to cover the cost of said tools. I operate a little small engine repair shop, I don't earn enough to pay for Snap-On and Fluke tools, and thats ok. I usually buy mid-grade tools, stuff that is quality, but you usually don't get a life-time warranty on them lol.

I know exactly what you are getting at in reference to the life-time warranty on cheap tools. For example, Craftsman was always known to have that life-time warranty program where they would replace your tool no questions asked, anytime it breaks. But what good does it do you if your tool breaks, and the bolt is still on there? I totally get that! I have a trick BTW for freeing up rusted bolts. You can always try a lubricant, but if its rusted up real bad, no lubricant by itself, is going to be of any help.

Thats when I fire up my Bernzomatic TS-8000 torch using MAP gas, and I heat that bolt up until it is red hot, and then I put my impact wrench on it, and usually, I can always get it to budge with that. Also, I am using a Milwaukee high torque impact wrench, which has more power then a pneumatic wrench. Yep, I've heard that Chinese steel sucks balls. Their not concerned with impurities in the metal, just as they are not concerned with impurities in their air, or their government lol.

About JVC and selling their souls to China - reality-check - people want quality at cheap price - so Japan workers cost too much money so they move manufacture to China - and when that got expensive Japanese companies move their production to where labour is the cheapest, they moved to Thailand or other developing economies (Samsung drives being an example that lost all its stock following floods in Thailand - now owned by Seagate - fingers down throat time).

star treker wrote: I've heard that Koss is a quality brand, but I am not sure if they are still around?

Surprisingly, yes. The ones I have here were made in 1989.

star treker wrote:As far as tools, I hear ya man. When you operate an automotive shop, you need high quality Snap-On tools and Fluke meters.

I use Fluke, but I do not use much Snap On.
I have OLD Snap On tools, pre1970.
In the mid-1990's, Snap On, Danaher Corp and Stanley Works got Crafty.
Snap On Was Named Directly In a US. Govt. Lawsuit along with Danaher and Stanley and a handful of others. What they were doing was buying parts and metal stock from China, then ASSEMBLING the tools, here, and stamping them "Made in the USA" based on the assembly location, not the manufacturer location.
By late 90's, the U.S. Govt. started an investigation on this, because the Law states that the entire product must be made in the USA in order to bear the COO of USA.
In late '99, the former filed litgation against the named companies.
Snap On quickly struck a deal, in order to AVOID THE PUBLICITY of people finding out that Snap On Tools marked "Made in the USA" were ACTUALLY BEING MADE IN CHINA.
Which is why in that range of years, from 99 to early 2,000's, you see many Snap On tools bearing No Country of Origin. Snap On tried to hit immediate compliance by leaving no COO on the tools.
Danaher tried to fight the lawsuit- But lost. In the end, Danaher transferred manufacturing equipment and holdings overseas and began full scale operations in Asia. At that time, Danaher was the company that made Craftsman Tools, and to meet compliance, Sears had to contract another USA company: National Hand Tool Co.
This is why many Craftsman TriWing Ratchets made in the USA look just like the TriWing ratchets made in Taiwan: See, a few years later, Danaher corp Bought NHT, National Hand Tool, and moved all the NHT from Dallas Texas over to a plant in Taiwan, supplying that plant with premium Manufacturing equipment. The production of the tools continued, in Taiwan.
This is why Sears in later part of the decade began Switching over from Craftsman being made in the USA to being made in Asia.
Snap On revamped US manufacturing and continued on, BUT CONTINUED TO BY RAW STEEL from overseas and STILL DOES.
Much of manufacturing was switched to Spain, as well.
Old Snap On is great. But the modern stuff is Way Overpriced Harbour Freight Tools. But try getting a devoted Snap On Fanatic to understand that- they won't hear it. They will go into rage of denial.

star treker wrote:I totally get that! I have a trick BTW for freeing up rusted bolts. You can always try a lubricant, but if its rusted up real bad, no lubricant by itself, is going to be of any help.

Thats when I fire up my Bernzomatic TS-8000 torch using MAP gas, and I heat that bolt up until it is red hot, and then I put my impact wrench on it, and usually, I can always get it to budge with that. Also, I am using a Milwaukee high torque impact wrench, which has more power then a pneumatic wrench.

Thanks for the tip, but I go a different way.
Adding heat with the torch will Heat Harden the bolt and as long as you are replacing it, that is fine. Which should be the majority of the time. But you cannot always replace the bolt- and not often the surrounding area. A heat Hardened bolt can snap unexpectedly even within range of the proper toque specs due to the removed elasticity.
My technique is to clean the area with a wire brush, thoroughly. (Power tools are fine for this) Clean the start of the threads with a dental pick (Takes 30 seconds), then apply P.B. Blaster and let it soak.
After a few hours, I use an appropriate tool- a breaker bar or a sliding-T works well. A ratchet is not well suited to this task: I put the socket on the bolt or nut and apply pressure Back and Forth- tighten- loosen- tighten -loosen... It always frees up. And you minimize the risk of a sheared bolt. No slippage or stripped bolt heads or stripped nuts...

It is very rare I use Impact tools. They have their purpose, but that purpose is not most of the time. They are way overused and worse-THEY ARE USED TO ASSEMBLE.
Impact Tools and Power Tools should NEVER EVER be used to assemble.
And they should Never be used on lugnuts- period.
Impact tools should be used on: Industrial machinery, Parts, Bolts and Nuts that WILL be replaced. That is it.
All assembly should be finished with a Torque Wrench- No Excuses. I recommend the J. H. Williams S-58. Awesome torker and it has a ratchet. If you prefer one without a ratchet that you can stick a ratchet adapter on only when needed: The S-57 (What I use) is a great pick.
My Impact Gun has a max of about 1100 ftlbs which I can easily beat with an 18 inch breaker bar. Just sayin'...

I always replace the bolts when they get that bad, because even if the bolt doesn't sheer off, it won't be long before they do, since rust has had its way with it for a long time. And even the larger bolts which wouldn't cost more then 2 dollars a piece, there is no reason not to in that situation. A customer is always going to appreciate it if you not only fix their machine, but also make its condition better then it was before.

I've actually seen a few people use the method that you do before. It does appear to work for people most of the time. I say that, cause one time I saw someone using that method, and the bolt sheered off anyways, then he had to try an extraction bit, and when that didn't work, he had to drill it out. Again, the bolt was in very bad shape so ya.

I also agree with you on NOT using impacts to assemble. You can use an impact to spin the bolt on most of the way, once you've screwed it in a few threads by hand first to insure your not stripping the bolt, but should torque to spec using a torque wrench. I use the Tekton 23345 1/2 drive torque wrench and it seems to work good for me, hasn't sheered a bolt yet.

Also, I try to stay away from Harbor Freight when it comes to important tools where quality is required. I mean, you won't go wrong buying a hammer at Harbor Freight! But if you need a impact driver or a torque wrench, I steer clear from them. And as far as lugnuts on a vehicle is concerned, I think everybody knows by now that you should torque them to spec using a torque wrench.

If I saw a tire shop spin lugnuts on with an impact wrench, but didn't put a torque wrench on them afterwords, I would avoid them at all costs. I don't know about you, but I don't want to see one of my wheels rolling past my car on the highway while going 70MPH. Yes, I'm sure you could tell some amazing stories about stuff like that happening, that would entertain me for hours lol.

star treker wrote:Yes, I'm sure you could tell some amazing stories about stuff like that happening, that would entertain me for hours lol.

I, like, so, like, totally can!

Around here, no one torques, They all impact. On lugnuts. For installation. I have seen things, I can tell you. But I will spare you...
Good thinking on your part. You are a cut above the supposed mechanics around here.
I did have that happen ONCE- a headbolt sheared off (Nightmare).
But before I went to the trouble of drilling it- I took a laser reading on the block and discovered that the block was warped.


For speed in assembly a Hand Crank Speeder is best. I will shoot ya an email when I have a moment later and get serious about tool talk.